We put our house in France up for sale in 2015, looking to simplify our back-and-forth life. My feet got cold almost as soon as the first visitors came to see it. I peered into a future where there was no house and garden to keep me busy and didn’t like what I saw. My husband, who doesn’t share my propensity for U-turns, reluctantly agreed to call a halt.
Four years later the idea of downsizing was front and centre again. Better to make the decision in advance of being forced to make it, I thought, and my favourite Belgian agreed. We contacted our jilted real estate agent, tidied up the house and settled back to wait. In a saturated market, the agent figured it would take at least six months and even upwards of a year to find a buyer, which would give us lots of time to sort out and divest as well as enjoy our remaining time in the house. Five days later, we had an offer.
Things got frantic. With a long-planned departure for Canada looming, we had to find a place to live, pronto. To buy or rent? We weren’t exactly in agreement on the issue, but after looking at what was for sale, renting in the interim seemed like the sensible option. In a major stroke of luck we found an apartment in a nearby village, no small feat in an area that has been overtaken by Airbnb and private holiday rentals, effectively pushing out local renters.
We had less than a month in the new place before leaving for Canada, and were there when the pandemic knocked the world off its axis. For the next eighteen months we stayed put, glad not to have a faraway house and garden to worry about. I loved being home for such a long time, without having to think about the next time I’d have to leave family, friends and my sense of belonging.
Like countless others responding to the crisis, I wanted to do something to help out. The world needed masks! People needed home-baked bread! Kids with Covid needed meals! I sewed and baked and cooked and chatted from the sidewalk with neighbours I’d never before met. Small contributions they may have been, but the sense of purpose they gave me was outsized.
After things settled down we talked about resuming our big commute. I would have happily stayed in my Canadian cocoon forever but my husband is European to his core. A polyglot with cultural roots in Belgium and Austria, he has a deep attachment to southeastern France, where he has lived for two decades. If he could spend a year and a half in my hometown without complaint—other than a mild comment about too-short Alberta summers—then I could be as generous with him.
After years of switching homes every three months—both financially heavy and environmentally awful—we decided to cut our air travel in half and stay for six months at a time. As we headed back to France I resolved to make the most of this (somewhat) more reasonable schedule, even though it meant being away from my family for longer than I really wanted. Nearly twenty years after I divorced and hied off to France to be with the man I loved, the memory of the fallout from that decision still bothers me. Mothers aren’t supposed to leave their children; every time I head east, the old guilt stirs and I want to turn around.
At first, living in the new apartment—an up-down duplex —was novel and pleasant, a relief from the responsibilities of owning a house. We had exactly what we needed: 700 square feet of high ceilings and big windows, lots of storage and a stupendous view. Apart from the occasional snarkiness of the landlords in the apartment below, it was ideal.
Most days I was out walking, exploring the winding lanes of the hilly countryside, loving that I could do almost everything I needed to without a car. A close friend lived minutes away; between coffee and conversation in her cozy kitchen, some great road trips and Christmas with the Belgian side of the family, the first six months went by quickly enough. FaceTiming with my fairy granddaughter wasn’t the same as having her warm sweetness in my arms, but it would have to do.
Then back to Calgary. With a six-month stretch in front of me and Covid less of a threat than it had been, I could finally get my teeth into some gratifying volunteer work. In the 90s I had volunteered in the ER of a big teaching hospital, following the example of my mom, who had done it for years until her feet wore out. The role was to facilitate visitor access to patients and was a perfect blend of people contact, an insight into the workings of an emergency department, and a fair amount of exercise. I applied and was accepted.
The ER was bigger and busier than it had been thirty years before, and Covid had changed the protocols. I shadowed other volunteers, learning my way around the labyrinthine network of treatment areas and the etiquette of who and when to ask for the OK to bring in a visitor. I saw up close how strained the medical system is, how committed and caring the staff are, but at the end of a shift I went home feeling I had done something useful.
Then the library came looking for people to conduct English conversation groups for immigrants, and the seniors’ home down the road wanted me to start up tech help sessions again for their residents. Yes and yes again!
And cats!! Animal shelters were desperate for foster homes for surrendered pandemic pets—I could have temporary kitties, max commitment three months. The first one was adopted by my daughter, the second one had me crying as she went off with her new person.
In her late seventies, my mom had plaintively commented that one of the hardest things about getting old was that she felt she couldn’t be useful anymore. Before health issues put a stop to her volunteering, she had given years of service to the hospital and had wide-ranging interests, from photography to philosophy courses. At the time, I couldn’t relate but it has since hit home that these things—particularly helping others—are crucial to my quality of life.
My French life, one that some of my friends see as ‘living the dream’, has a beautiful backdrop but is basically sans purpose. Hospitals there don’t have volunteer programs and the only other opportunities are picking over tired produce at the food bank or sorting donations at the Red Cross shop, which has a surplus of willing hands. Occasionally a friend might ask for help with a computer problem, but most of the time I feel unproductive and, well, useless.
Do those Canadians who escape winter to hole up in Florida or Arizona or Mexico for months find the climate worth the absence of purpose? I wonder. A person can only walk and read and chat over coffee so much before it starts to feel like the holiday’s gone on too long. I missed the energy and fulfillment I got from being in the ER, missed cat cuddles, missed helping the old folks and listening to their stories.
Although the latest French sojourn was a lot shorter, it was still overlong. The heat forced us indoors much of the time; we won’t spend a summer in Europe again. There’ll be more decisions to make, one of which might be that we choose to spend time apart, each in our favourite place. Solo time isn’t a bad thing for any marriage, but at this point in our lives it doesn’t seem like a great idea either. So who knows? The pandemic has taught us a few things, one of which is that you can’t count on things happening the way you planned.
Lest anybody think I’m whining, I know how lucky I am to be able to spend lots of time in another country. But life over there is just life; it might seem special but it’s full of the same stuff you do no matter where you live, grocery shopping, cleaning the fridge out, doing laundry…just with a French twist.